Nā Paikini

The first of the traditional style of lei hulu is the WILI POEPOE. The term "wili" means "to wind or twist" and "poepoe" means, "round, rounded or circular."  The feather is turned upwards and is tied to a center which will ultimately wind its way down to create more of a full or fluffy lei.

WILI KĀMOE is the second of the traditional style lei. "Kāmoe" means "to recline, lie back."  Like the Poepoe lei, the feathers on this lei are tied to a center but the feathers are turned downward and lied flat, creating a circular, smooth lei.

After the arrival of Missionaries and the introduction of sewing, the HUMUPAPA style was born. Created by the Paniolo, this lei is considered more of a contemporary style because of the usage of needle and thread. Sewn to a strip of cloth or felt, each feather is sewn precisely in rows, laying the feather from the outside and working towards the center. 

A variation of the Lei Kāmoe, the LOKELANI mimics the rose bud. Commonly separated by a pony bead, each bud has ten feathers that is tied to a base with the bead in its center to keep it's round bud-like shape. 

A combination of both Poepoe and Kāmoe, the lei is made flat with the "poepoe" feathers sticking out at its sides, while the "kāmoe" keeps the lei flat on the top and bottom. Ultimately, creating a lei that was inspired by the orchid maunaloa lei.

Like its namesake, this lei is the feathered version of the marigold flower. Another combination of the "poepoe" and "kāmoe" styles, each 'marigold' is separated by the flattened stem, while the petals bloom at its top. Interlocking them into one long chain like the fresh marigold lei.

Used in old Hawai'i, ladies-in-waiting would hold these to fan the Ali'i during processions or long days at court. The Kahili Pa'alima or also known as Kahili Lele, were a miniature version of the tall Kahili standards. Sea bird feathers were ideal for these hand-held standards as they were sturdier and more resilient to the constant movement of court life. Present day, we use primarily chicken hackles or rooster tail feathers.